Chef Dennis Marron
Not Your Typical Restaurant, Not Your Typical Chef

What is the modern American menu?

I guess, simply put, it's local products combined with world influences and sustainable practices, the latter of which Kimpton Hotels & Restaurants is on the cutting edge. For example, I work closely with several local producers - Davon Cress Farms, Southern Most Maple Virginia Lamb, Mount Vernon Farms, Virginia Seafood - to get the freshest meats, cheeses, produce.

What are your world influences?

I was trained at the CIA, but at the turning point was in the school's methods of training. The modernization from primarily French methods to other tastes. I was also on the front-line, literally, of the development of Pacific Rim fusion cuisine. But French is probably my strongest influence and foundation.

Your internship in Hawaii must have appealed to the surfer in you - what did it do for you as a chef?

Everyone has to do an internship somewhere... (laughs) But I wanted to get as far away from home [New Jersey] as possible. I didn't want to go to New York; I lived across the river from there. So, I went to Hawaii. I received a wage, which you don't get as an intern in New York, and I was treated well. Hawaii was at the heart of the Pacific Rim fusion cuisine at the time. I worked for a Japanese sushi chef, and learned a lot from him about Japanese cuisine. I cleaned a lot of squid, too. There was also a very talented German pastry chef. I learned to do fun things, like create delicate pulled-sugar, which has helped me immensely since I do most of my own pastries.

How do you approach the preparation of your dishes?

I take American and French classics and modernize them. I take the dishes that people know and feel comfortable with and make them more exciting. I like different presentations, too, so a dish doesn't look like you're used to seeing it on the plate. Instead of braising, I'll grill it. Instead of an olive, I'll puree the olive, dehydrate it and then add it as an edible olive paper. I always liked playing with my food and now I get to do it for a living.

So, you tended bar...?

(Laughs) I've done it all. I've bussed, been a waiter, and a bar back where I hauled ice all day. I can run food, make a drink and jump on the line. I washed dishes last night. It gives me a certain appreciation for what it takes to run a restaurant, and reminds me that every person is integral to the success of the place. Most chefs don't have that appreciation.

What's the one kitchen item you can't live without?

I would have to say a couple things. Years ago it would have been one of my knives. But now it's a good spoon. My tweezers. And my computer - which I never thought I'd say. But if you need to look something up, it's right there. And when you're running two restaurants, it's important, too. Lots of paperwork...

What is the one dish that defines your talent?

People always ask about signature dishes, but I never like to repeat (the dishes). At least 90 percent of the time I do something, I'm doing it for the first time. It's the first time I've seen it. It's a little leap of faith. At some point, everything in the Dining Room menu will rotate out. It keeps me excited. Keeps the staff excited.

Do you cook at home?

Every other week, or so. I like to grill outside, sit out with a beer, and get a pile of charcoal burning. I like to see what I can do, cook everything over one big fire. Bread's tricky sometimes...Other than that, when I get home from work at midnight, it's a Stouffer's frozen lasagna (laughs).

When you interview young chefs, what do you look for, what ingredients do you feel they should possess?

Passion, first and foremost. They need to really want to be here, day in, day out. You can see it in somebody's eyes. It's a long day in the kitchen and it's a lot of work. They need to be able to handle a large number of projects at one time. That passion is what's going to see them through. I look for general knowledge, too. Knowledge I can teach. Now passion, that's something I can't teach.

You once said it's the supreme challenge to build the best burger. Tell us about yours.

I truly believe that my burger at the Grille is one of the best in town. I use a 75-25 ratio, with a higher fat content. I add duck fat, too. The meat is seasoned lightly with a secret seasoning - one of those "I'd have to kill you if I told you recipes." Then it's topped with local Mountaineer cheese and shallot jam. This burger stays with you a couple of days, in a good way.